RAF Cotton Sweater
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折返りのロールネック。きつすぎず、緩すぎず。高さも大事で、日本人はどうしても欧米人のように首が長くない。低すぎると、せっかくのロールネックがモックネックのようになってしまう。結局、パターンを何種類もひき、量産で使うのと同じ生地を用意して試し縫いを繰り返しベストなバランスを探しました。
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リブ継ぎ目は背中側、中心から少しはずして。
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身頃裏は起毛有り。RAF Sweater、Raglan, Cardiganシリーズに使っている身頃生地は「天竺編み」。Tシャツと同じ編み方を、太い糸を何本も合わせて編むことで厚みを出しています。
ただ、厚みがあるとは言え撚り合わせ/引き揃えた糸を最終的には「1本」の糸として編みます。だから起毛が難しい。かけすぎると強度の問題が出る、弱すぎると「起毛したの?」という仕上がりになってしまう。だから、天竺編みの起毛は少ないのです。それに対し、裏毛(いわゆるスウェット生地)は表糸・中糸・裏糸と3層構造なので起毛がかけやすいのです。
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無題ドキュメント
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Winter Modified BD, 8 oz Blue Chambray |
Winter Modified BD, 8 oz White Chambray |
Winter Modified BD, Brushed Check, Black |
Winter Modified BD, Brushed Check, Brown |
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Flannel Outdoor Shirt, Red Buffalo Check |
Flannel Outdoor Shirt, Blue Buffalo Check |
Flannel Outdoor Shirt, Black Plaid |
Flannel Outdoor Shirt, Blue Plaid |
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Raglan Sweater, White |
Raglan Sweater, Faded Black |
Raglan Sweater, Grey |
Raglan Sweater, Taupe |
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RAF Sweater, White |
RAF Sweater, Faded Black |
RAF Sweater, Grey |
Raglan Sweater, Taupe |
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Cardigan Sweater, White |
Cardigan Sweater, Faded Black |
Cardigan Sweater, Grey |
Cardigan Sweater, Taupe |
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French Herringbone Pants, Herringbone Stripe |
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Bal Collar Coat, Beige Gabardine |
Bal Collar Coat, Khaki Gabardine |
Bal Collar Coat, Heavy Ventile |
Bal Collar Coat, Grey Herringbone |
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